Custom Selvedge Jeans From 100 Units

Raw And Rinsed Denim

Raw denim is shipped unwashed, preserving a darker surface and allowing wearers to create personal fade patterns; it suits heritage and enthusiast-led releases. Its commercial appeal is authenticity, while sizing must account for potential shrinkage and color transfer. Rinsed denim receives a light wash that softens the hand and improves first-wear comfort. It reduces customer uncertainty, but adds wash cost and produces a less dramatic evolution than raw fabric.

Rigid And Stretch Blends

100% cotton rigid selvedge gives the structured hand and high-contrast fading associated with traditional denim. It supports premium storytelling, but requires careful fit testing because recovery is limited. 1–3% elastane blends improve mobility for slim women’s and comfort-oriented fits. The trade-off is a less traditional hand and added risk of knee growth if fabric recovery is poorly specified.

Weight And Silhouette

10–12 oz denim is practical for warm climates and layering, while 13–16 oz is a versatile core range; 17 oz and above targets heavy-denim enthusiasts. Heavier goods raise freight weight, sewing difficulty, and break-in time. Five-pocket straight and tapered jeans are the lowest-risk opening styles because grading and merchandising are familiar. Wide-leg, flare, carpenter, relaxed, and cropped shapes add fashion differentiation but need separate fit approval.

Fit Blocks And Size Coverage

Men’s, women’s, and unisex blocks require different rise, hip, thigh, and leg-balance decisions rather than simple label changes. A unisex relaxed fit can consolidate development, but may compromise a targeted silhouette. XS–3XL programs need graded patterns that adjust body proportion and mobility across the size set. Extended-size development expands audience reach, while adding sampling and measurement-control work before bulk approval.

Fiber And Yarn Character

100% cotton can use long-staple, organic, or conventional origins; origin alone does not guarantee strength or shade consistency. Ring-spun yarns usually give a smoother, stronger surface than open-end yarns, while slub and nep yarns add deliberate irregularity. 3–8% elastane or elastomultiester changes recovery, knee growth, and grading tolerance. Stretch denim needs fit approval across the full size set because the same rise or thigh increment can feel different after wear and washing.

Weight And Wash Matrix

12 oz fabric suits lighter seasonal jeans, while 16 oz fabric needs a longer break-in period and stronger seam control. Confirm weight after finishing, because washing and sanforization can alter the final hand and density.

Dyeing And Shrinkage Control

Indigo-dyed warp yarns with undyed or lightly dyed wefts create the familiar fade contrast; sulfur-black warp produces a different aging path. Rope-dyed, reactive, and sulfur systems should be sampled with the intended enzyme, stone, or bleach wash. 1–3% residual shrinkage is a practical post-sanforization target, but mills must provide test data by warp and weft. Higher-shrinkage unsanforized cloth requires allowance in inseam, rise, and grading, increasing sampling risk and potentially MOQ when a dedicated fabric run is needed.

Fit Block And Pocket Geometry

At 100 units, choose a proven fit block or fund a new pattern before the first prototype. Specify high, mid, or low rise; thigh, knee, hem, inseam, and straight, tapered, flare, or relaxed leg measurements in the tech pack. Two back-pocket shapes, placement dimensions, stitch lines, and coin-pocket details materially change the visual signature. Approve these on the fit sample, because late pattern revisions can require another sample round.

Hardware And Brand Marks

Pantone-matched thread, contrast topstitching, buttons, rivets, zipper finish, leather or vegan patch, woven labels, and embroidery should be specified before bulk material booking. Custom-die hardware or patch molds commonly add approval time and may raise minimums beyond the garment program. One logo placement and one hardware finish usually create a stronger identity than unrelated decorative additions. Request strike-offs for embroidery, labels, and patch artwork before production approval.

Wash And Packing Decisions

One approved wash recipe should define shade, hand feel, abrasion placement, and distress level for the launch colorway. Stone wash, enzyme wash, tinting, grinding, tears, and repair panels need a physical approval sample because results vary by denim lot. Three packaging details—fold method, branded polybag or carton marks, and hang-tag attachment—should be finalized before final packing. Keep wash contrast, thread color, patch material, and packaging typography within the same brand palette.

Seams And Hemming

Eight to 10 stitches per inch is a practical baseline for durable seams without puckering dense denim. Inspect inseam and outseam alignment from hem to rise; felled seams should lie flat with no skipped stitches or raw edges. A chain-stitched hem creates the characteristic roping effect after washing, but it must be even around the full leg opening. Compare both inseams and finished lengths on the prototype, then set a written hem tolerance appropriate to the size range.

Stress Points And Waistbands

Two bar tacks at pocket corners and reinforced belt-loop attachment points prevent common early failures. Check that back-pocket symmetry, arcuate placement, and bartack density match the approved sample. Five to seven belt loops are typical depending on waist size and design; loops should be securely caught into the waistband seam. A waistband must sit smoothly at the center back, with aligned buttonhole, fly, and topstitching.

• Pull-test belt loops and pocket corners on samples.
• Check pocket openings for clean, balanced curves.
• Confirm waistband seam allowance is fully enclosed.

Fly Hardware And Wash Approval

YKK or equivalent specified hardware should operate smoothly through repeated opening and closing. For a button fly, verify button clinch security and equal spacing; for a zipper fly, check tape coverage, stopper position, and fly-front alignment. Three washed production pieces per colorway offer a useful early consistency check. Measure before and after wash, compare shade and abrasion placement, and agree tolerances that reflect the fabric, wash process, and intended rugged wear rather than demanding identical handmade effects.

Verify Denim Access

12–16 oz selvedge requires reliable mill allocation, shrinkage data, and repeatable lot matching. Ask which mills supply the fabric, whether stock is reserved, and request swatches, composition reports, and loom-width specifications.

• Confirm ring-spun yarn, weight, width, and sanforization
• Request lot-specific shade and shrinkage test results
• Ask whether replacement fabric matches the approved roll

Test Development Ownership

One approved sample is insufficient proof of production readiness. Ask whether the supplier can work from a tech pack, sketch, or reference garment; request the pattern, measurement spec, construction sheet, and sample revision log.

• Confirm OEM execution and ODM design support
• Review patternmaking and graded size-set capability
• Approve fit, wash, trims, and packaging separately

Audit Wash And Quality

Three checkpoints—pre-wash, post-wash, and final packing—should catch measurement drift and damage. Request wash recipes, before-and-after measurements, inspection reports, and evidence of wash-house control or accountable subcontractor oversight. OEKO-TEX, GOTS, WRAP, or BSCI certificates should be verified by scope and validity, not accepted as logos. Ask which facility and processes each certificate covers.

• Check bartacks, seam durability, puckering, and broken stitches
• Measure inseam, rise, leg opening, and waistband after wash
• Request AQL standard and final-inspection photos

Confirm Delivery Communication

2010-founded Junsheen supports development, grading, quality control, packaging, and export from Dongguan, with production starting at 100 units per style and color. Ask for a dated critical path covering material approval, sampling, bulk cut, wash, inspection, and shipment. 80,000-plus monthly capacity does not guarantee a reserved production window. Request references for similar export programs, named communication contacts, sample lead times, and written escalation steps for defects or delays.

• Confirm Incoterms, destination documentation, and freight responsibility
• Agree approval deadlines and change-control rules
• Settle balances before shipment and retain approved samples

Specify Fabric Beyond Weight

12–16 oz denim can vary sharply in yarn twist, sanforization, shrinkage and abrasion behavior. Request swatches, composition, weave, finish, shade band and wash-test results before approving bulk.

Test Wash And Measurements

2–5% residual shrinkage can move inseam, waist and rise outside tolerance after a rinse or enzyme wash. Define point-of-measure specs, tolerances and post-wash measurements; approve a washed size set, not only a dry sample.

Develop Your Own Fit

1 copied competitor sample rarely grades correctly for another customer or target body. Use it as a reference, then establish a brand block with front rise, back rise, thigh, knee, hem and mobility reviewed on relevant fit models.

Lock Hardware And Approvals

1 late zipper, button or rivet change can alter waistband construction, wash results and delivery dates. Specify finishes, puller artwork, placement and corrosion expectations early, then allow time for full sample review before production approval.

Price The Complete Program

100-unit quotes can omit testing, grading, wash development, labels or inspection scope, creating later cost and timing pressure. Compare factories on a written specification, sample responsiveness, quality controls and total landed production plan—not unit price alone.

Define The Development Brief

1 reference garment, a target retail price, and a customer profile give the factory usable direction. The buyer supplies measurements, silhouette references, artwork, Pantone colors, and required market labels; Junsheen reviews manufacturability, construction sequence, and likely cost drivers. 2 documents prevent subjective sampling: a tech pack should specify point-of-measure tolerances, inseam, rise, leg opening, stitch color, wash recipe, and placement. Junsheen can develop patterns, source fabric and trims, and flag conflicts before the first sample.

• Reference garment or clear front, back, and detail photos
• Measurement chart with tolerances
• Target quantity, colors, delivery market, and retail price

Approve Fit Before Bulk

1 fit sample should be reviewed on the intended fit model, not only on a hanger. The buyer marks corrections to balance, rise, seat, thigh, knee, inseam, and hem; Junsheen revises the pattern and confirms the next sample scope. XS–3XL programs require a graded size set after the base size is approved. Junsheen checks grading increments and measurements, while the buyer approves fit, wash appearance, labels, hardware, and final color standards before production release.

• Approve fabric swatch and shrinkage allowance
• Confirm zipper, button, rivet, and label samples
• Sign off on the pre-production sample

Plan Launch And Reorders

100 units per style and color can suit a focused first drop when colorways and wash variables stay limited. The buyer should reserve time for sampling, revisions, approvals, freight, and launch photography; Junsheen schedules bulk work after pre-production approval. 1 retained production file makes replenishment faster and less variable. Junsheen retains approved patterns, graded size sets, and material records; the buyer should document sell-through by size, color, and return reason before placing the next run.

• Inspect incoming fabric, in-line sewing, measurements, decoration, and packed goods
• Approve branded packaging before final packing
• Settle final balance before shipment