Custom Screen Printing for Apparel From 100 Units

Core Ink Comparison

100% cotton jersey accepts the widest range of inks, while polyester and stretch blends require migration-resistant or flexible systems. 6 comparisons below separate the visible finish from production complexity, which directly affects screen preparation and approval samples.

Soft-Hand And Vintage Prints

Water-based ink penetrates cotton fibers for a matte, breathable hand; it suits premium tees, lightweight jersey, and fashion graphics. Discharge removes dye before depositing color on dischargeable dark cotton, producing a worn-in look. Test every garment dye lot because color discharge varies.

• Choose water-based for soft premium graphics.
• Choose discharge for vintage dark-cotton artwork.

Dimension And Specialty Effects

Puff expands during curing, while high-density ink builds sharply raised layers; both make bold logos read clearly on hoodies and heavyweight fleece. Silicone, foil, flock, and metallic inks add stretch, shine, suede, or reflective character. Use them selectively because extra screens, controlled curing, and adhesion tests increase setup risk.

• Puff: rounded, tactile statement logos.
• High-density: crisp architectural depth.
• Silicone: flexible performance-wear branding.

Fiber Content And Opacity

100% ring-spun cotton gives water-based and discharge inks a soft hand and dependable absorption; dark garments still require an underbase for bright opaque color. 50/50 cotton-poly blends print cleanly with low-bleed plastisol, but polyester content can migrate dye during curing. 100% polyester needs low-cure, bleed-resistant ink and production testing on the actual colorway.

Weight And Surface Texture

160–220 GSM jersey is a practical T-shirt range because its smooth face supports fine detail without excessive ink penetration. Slub, open-end, or heavily textured knits can soften edges and require coarser mesh or simplified art. 280–400 GSM French terry and brushed fleece suit hoodies, yet raised nap can trap ink and alter print feel. Sample after washing, especially when a large solid chest or back print crosses seams, pockets, or ribbing.

Denim, Jackets, And Workwear

10–14 oz denim, twill jackets, and workwear need a stable, flatter print zone because seams, abrasion, and garment washes stress the ink film. Plastisol or high-density systems generally provide stronger opacity than soft water-based prints on dark, rugged substrates. 150–180°C is a common plastisol cure range, but the correct temperature and dwell time depend on ink, fiber, and dryer verification. Confirm adhesion and wash performance on a finished sample, not only on a fabric swatch.

Build a Repeatable Color System

1–6 spot colors are the most dependable route for bold logos, type and flat graphics. Supply Pantone references, but approve a physical strike-off because fabric color, ink opacity and garment texture shift the final appearance. 4-color process and simulated process reproduce tonal artwork through halftone dots. Simulated process is generally stronger on dark garments, while tiny highlights and gradients need testing at actual print size.

Choose High-Impact Placements

30–35 cm front prints can create an oversized statement, but seams, pockets and curved areas reduce consistent squeegee pressure. Keep key details away from rib edges, zippers and heavy seam intersections. 1-color sleeve, back-neck or nape prints add recognition without making the main artwork overcrowded. Provide placement dimensions from a fixed reference point, such as center front or neck seam.

• Oversized chest or full-back graphics
• Sleeve and cuff identifiers
• Back-neck branding
• Pocket-adjacent accents

Match Effects To Artwork

3D puff, high-density, flock and silicone create tactile contrast; metallic, foil, glow and reflective inks add directional visibility. Each effect needs adequate line weight and spacing because fine details can fill in, crack or lose definition. 300 dpi artwork at final size, vector spot-color separations and clear layer names reduce prepress errors. Junsheen can review separations and sample the chosen effect before bulk approval.

Artwork And Registration

Each color separation should preserve intended halftones, knockouts, and trapping without unintended overlaps. On the strike-off, inspect multicolor screen registration at fine lines, small type, and adjacent colors; edges should be clean, with no visible ghosting or pinholes.

• Check artwork against the approved production file
• Inspect thin lines and small lettering at normal viewing distance
• Confirm Pantone references or approved physical color standard

Ink Coverage And Cure

One opaque print should cover the garment ground evenly without a mottled underbase, exposed fibers, or excessively heavy hand feel. After the specified cure, ink must be bonded through the film rather than merely dry on the surface.

• Compare opacity on light and dark fabric grounds
• Check sharp edges around logos and fine details
• Review cured print for tackiness or dye migration

Stretch And Wash Verification

Five stretch-and-recovery cycles on the highest-stretch print area can reveal early cracking, lifting, or distortion before bulk approval. Use the agreed wash method and retain a washed approval sample beside the unwashed standard to judge color, adhesion, and hand feel.

• Stretch printed seams, rib areas, and large solid fills
• Wash according to the care-label temperature and cycle
• Reject peeling, severe cracking, or meaningful color shift

Placement And Bulk Standard

A placement tolerance should be written on the approved sample and measured from stable garment points such as the high-point shoulder, center front, or side seam. Junsheen can use the signed sample, artwork file, size chart, and placement record as the reference during in-line and final inspection.

• Record print width, height, and placement reference points
• Approve one sample for color, hand feel, and edge quality
• Require bulk checks against the retained approved standard

Verify Apparel And Print Experience

3 recent production examples should show comparable fabric weight, ink coverage, placement, and wash outcome. Ask whether printing is in-house, which press type is used, and who owns responsibility when decoration affects garment quality.

• Request dated sample photos and wash-test records
• Confirm manual versus automatic press capacity
• Ask for references from comparable apparel programs

Test The Sample Process

1 approved pre-production sample should match the bulk fabric, colorway, print size, placement, and finishing. Request a strike-off or lab dip for brand colors, then approve Pantone references and artwork separations before production.

• Confirm color tolerance and ink system
• Check registration on seams and ribbing
• Ask for measurement and placement tolerances

Check Compliance And Communication

48-hour response expectations help prevent artwork, fabric, or approval delays from becoming production delays. Request applicable OEKO-TEX, GOTS, WRAP, or BSCI documentation where required, and identify one accountable production contact.

• Get a written critical-path schedule
• Confirm inspection checkpoints and reporting
• Clarify export documentation responsibilities

Plan For Repeat Orders

100 units per style and color can validate a capsule, but repeatability depends on retained patterns, color standards, screens, material records, and approved samples. Ask how capacity is reserved as orders move from 100 units to recurring bulk programs.

• Compare sampling and bulk lead times
• Confirm reorder MOQ and color minimums
• Request capacity and peak-season planning evidence

Match Fabric Before Technique

100% cotton jersey, fleece, and polyester blends accept ink differently; discharge needs suitable dyed cotton, while dye migration can affect polyester. Confirm fabric content, color, GSM, and wash finish before selecting plastisol, water-based, or discharge. 5% shrinkage can shift hand feel and print appearance after laundering. Wash-test the actual garment sample, then approve the decoration method against the final fabric rather than a generic swatch.

Prepare Production-Ready Artwork

300 DPI raster art at final print size and vector spot-color files reproduce predictably; low-resolution screenshots create jagged edges. Supply editable artwork, Pantone references, print dimensions, and a separated-color file. 12-color artwork is not automatically practical for every order size or fabric. Ask the printer to simplify blends, identify halftones, and confirm screen count before quotation.

Approve Physical Print Proofs

1 strike-off on the actual garment exposes opacity, registration, curing, and color issues that a digital mockup cannot show. Approve it under normal lighting and after a wash test before releasing bulk production. 10 mm placement tolerance is common for garment printing, and shrinkage can change the apparent position. Specify measured placement from a seam or neckline, print size, acceptable tolerance, and post-wash expectations.

Lock Down Commercial Specifications

$0.20 less per unit can cost more when ink coverage, curing control, packing, or reject handling are excluded. Compare like-for-like quotes covering garment, screens, colors, print locations, labels, packaging, QC, and freight terms. 1 approved production sheet should replace vague notes such as ‘large front print.’ Record SKU, fabric, color, Pantone, artwork version, placement, dimensions, technique, size breakdown, tolerances, and acceptance standard.

Define The Product Brief

100 units per style and color is a practical starting point for a capsule program at Junsheen. Submit a line plan identifying garment silhouette, target fabric weight, size range, Pantone references, decoration placement, and required-label details. 3XL grading or an oversized fit requires its own measurement chart and fit intent. Include a reference garment, tech pack, or annotated sketch so pattern, blank selection, and costing follow the same brief.

• Line plan and target retail price
• Tech pack with measurements
• Pantone colors and placement artwork
• Size breakdown and delivery date

Prepare Artwork And Costing

300 dpi artwork at final print size reduces prepress ambiguity. Provide editable vector files for spot-color separations, specify ink effects such as puff or water-based, and identify print locations, dimensions, and color count. 1 quotation request should state quantity by color and size, fabric composition, garment color, packaging, destination, and Incoterm. Ask the factory to separate sample, screen, decoration, freight, and bulk-unit costs.

Approve Samples And Specifications

1 decorated sample should be reviewed under normal light and after a wash test before bulk approval. Check print registration, opacity, hand feel, measurements, shrinkage, labels, and packaging against the approved files. 1 signed approval pack should freeze the production standard. Keep the PO, final quotation, proforma invoice, approved sample photos, measurement spec, artwork proof, and color standard together.

• Approved sample or clear approval photos
• Final artwork and print placement sheet
• Measurement chart and tolerance
• Label, packaging, and carton specification

Control Production And Delivery

2 inspection points—during production and before packing—catch defects before shipment. Request production updates, inline measurement records, decoration checks, and final AQL inspection evidence where required. 7 to 14 days before goods are ready, confirm carton marks, shipping method, consignee details, balance payment timing, and customs documents. Reserve freight early when a launch date is fixed.